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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. However, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest shop securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.